Xi'an

Our summer adventures in China continued in Xi’an after a flight up from Guilin. Of course the main attraction that everyone knows about is the Terracotta Army. However there is more to Xi’an than that. Apart from being an important junction on the Silk Road, it is one of few Chinese cities with an intact city wall and associated gates.

The wall and gates are very well maintained and provided a great opportunity to cycle around the old city. We started off at the South Gate.

The centre of the city is dominated by the Bell and Drum towers, not far from the South Gate.

The Bell Tower, city centre, Xi'an

On my way down to the Bell Tower Square, the night I took the above photo, I came across these.

Two motorised tricycle mounted telescopes

One could not see any stars because of the pollaze and light pollution. What were the green lasers pointing at? The larger telescope was a 50 or 60cm reflector and trained on Saturn. The planet was clearly seen, not very large in the viewfinder but the rings were distinctly evident.

The gates and city wall dominate and there are plenty of cycles to hire for a round trip along the top of the wall.

The South Gate Entrance

The traditional gates are still  there. Large vehicle entrances have been made either side of the gate here to allow vehicle access.

Starting off at the south gate you notice guard towers quite close together and larger structures at each corner of the wall too.

Larger tower structures are plentiful on the wall.

Being around 14 kilometres long, the wall appears to fade into the distance.

Looking back towards the south Gate where we started from.

A pause at the East Gate and guess who pops up again, Shaun the sheep!

Shaun the sheep at the East Gate

Continuing along to the north east corner we came to a rather grand tower for some photo opportunities.

North East corner tower

Enjoying the view

The North Gate is near where the railway station is. Going by taxi through the gate there is a large bus station opposite the station. This is where you will find bus 5 (306) for the trip out to the Terracotta Warriors.

The North Gate

All these photos show the effects of the pollaze (my new word for the mixtiure of pollution and humidity haze) with the consequent washing out of the sky. Not ideal atmospheric conditions for good photographs. One has to take it as it is as we pass through here but once.

Inside the wall at the North West Corner

At the North West corner there is a restored section of the old city. Not sure what it was as access was closed off from the wall to the inside at this point. Further along at the West Gate we came across the Silk Road Museum and the guards outside!!!

Warriors and new found friends.

We arrived back one and a half hours after setting out, very hot and ready for cold drinks. Hire the bikes for longer and fit in the Silk Road Museum if you go.

Next day we set off by taxi to find the bus 5 (306). It is on the east side of Station Square, no signs but the queues give it away. Ones buys the tickets on the bus which leaves as soon as it is full.

Emperors in the various dynasties of China spent vast sums of money, employed thousands of workers and slaves to build their tombs. Emperor Qin Shi Huang constructed his Terracotta Army (around 210BC) to protect him in his afterlife. It is reputed that he also sacrificed a number of virgins so that he could continue to enjoy himself in the next world after his death. He is also said to have had the sculptors killed too so that other emperors would not be able to build another army to challenge him.

Arriving at the bus stop, one follows the crowds through the huge car park until you eventually meet up with one of the official Government Guides. A guide here is absolutely essential and good value at ¥150. She got our entrance tickets, another ¥150 each. First an electric bus trip to Pit 3 at this vast site.

The discovery of a severed terracotta head in 1974 by some farmers digging a well lead to the excavation and restoration of this World Heritage site.

First warriors seen in Pit 3



Daunting task ahead to put the pieces back together.



Terracotta horses, Pit 3

After Qin Shi Huang died, the farmers rose up in revolt at being kept poor. They stormed into the pits, and decapitated large numbers of the warriors, smashed horses and the set fire to the roof of most of the pits. The photos above show some of the damaged warriors in situ.



Pit 2, only a small part has been excavated.

When the Terracotta Warriors were made, they were all painted but the fires destroyed the beautiful paint work. However in Pit 2, some of the warriors still have the paint on them. Exposure to air unfortunately means that the paint is rapidly oxidised and disappears. All excavation here has stopped until a solution is found.

Kneeling Archer recovered from Pit 2

The archer here is one a number of restored figures in glass cages. Hundreds of similar figures and of standing archers have been recoverd so far. The sheer numbers of visitors meaning that this is the only decent photo of these statues that is worth publishing here.

Moving on to Pit 1 now. Even though most people have seen the photos, the first sight of the massed ranks is breathless.

Pit 1



The sign marks the site of the well dug which lead to the discovery of the Terracotta Army.

Ranks of warriors in some of the pits here were relatively undamaged; they may have only lost their heads which were nearby.

Originally each warrior was carrying a weapon. The wooden handles being grasped in the hands as shown here. Metals heads on the weapons have been recovered and displayed in the museum.

A close up here shows the faces of three warriors. All the warriors uncovered are different as they were sculptered by an army of hundreds if not thousands of workers. Their fate once they had finished is mentioned above!

The prized exhibits have to be the two bronze chariots and teams of horses. These are in a darkened room behind plate glass in an air-conditioned environment.

Bronze Chariot and team of horses,
possibly the most important artifacts from China's past.

Restoration continues at the back of the shed covering Pit 1. 

Warriors under restoration

Not to be missed in Xi’an is Calligraphy Street. Here you can see traditional Chinese crafts being done on the street and choose some great souvenirs to take home. Terracotta Warriors here are heaps cheaper than out at the site itself.



Typical building in Calligraphy Street

From Xi'an it was off to Beijing for a week.