Bay of Islands and the Treaty of Waitangi

On returning to New Zealand we spent 3 months in Auckland and took to opportunity to spend a few days based at Waitangi in the Bay of Islands.

We also had a day trip up to Cape Reinga and returned via Ninety Mile Beach. This will be the subject of another blog to follow soon.

On the way up to Waitangi we first of all stopped at the Matakohe Kauri Museum. This is not to be missed and worthwhile spending at least 2 hours to gain an excellent overall idea of the kauri industry in Northland. One of New Zealand's best.

No visit is complete to this part of New Zealand without paying homage to Tane Mahuta. We did this on the way to Waitangi and the Bay of Islands

Tane Mahuta (Lord of the Forest)
The largest tree in New Zealand with a
trunk height of 17.7m and a girth of 13.8m)

Moving on from the giant kauris (agathis australis), the hotel next to the Treaty Grounds at Waitangi provided a convenient base to catch up on some of the important history of our country.

Waitangi

Prior to 1840, New Zealand was administered from New South Wales. In 1839, William Hobson was appointed as Lieutenant - Governor to the Governor of NSW. Hobson's job was to draft a treaty between the indigenous Māori and the Europeans settlers, Pakehā.

Governor Hobson's residence, now known as the Treaty House

On 5 February 1840, 500 Māori and 200 Pakehā gathered on the lawn outside to discuss the both versions (The English and Māori translation of the draft treaty.) with discussions going on inside into the night.

Next day on 6 February 1840 The Treaty of Waitangi was signed by 40 chiefs. Copies of the treaty were then taken around New Zealand and was signed by a further 500 chiefs by the end of September 1840.

Hone Heke, Chief of the Northern tribe Nga Puhi was the first to sign the treaty.

The Treaty Grounds are the site of celebrations
every year on the national holiday on 6 February

The Treaty Grounds overlooking the Bay of Islands

Nicely kept gardens behind the Treaty House

Visitors to Waitangi can enter the meeting house, next to Governor Hobson's residence, but must be welcomed with a traditional powhiri.


The meeting house to the right of the Treaty House

Powhiri in progress

Visitors are treated to a cultural performance which most New Zealanders find very moving and emotional.

Although a tourist hotspot , (and rightly so) there is so much of our early history, including New Zealand's first capital nearby (Auckland was the next one for a few years before the shift to Wellington), I think this part of the country should be on all New Zealander's bucket list.

Russell

Russell was one of the first places to be settled by Europeans with Rev. Samuel Marsden preaching the first sermon there in 1814.

Entrance sign to track down to Russell.

Russell

Hone Heke, Chief of the Ngā Puhi was in favour of the treaty and indeed the first chief to sign it.

Four years after the treaty was signed he was disillusioned by the failure of colonialism to deliver the prosperity to his people the treaty promised. His response was to cut down the British flag flying at Kororāreka, later Russell. He was to cut it down three further times before war broke out in 1845 between the British troops and northern tribes.

(In 2014, the New Zealand Government is still settling claims under through the Waitangi Tribunal.)  

Christ Church, Russell

Christ Church Russell

This church is New Zealand's oldest dating from 1836. It is constructed from timber, mostly totara and kauri.

The graveyard gives a good indication of the early history of the country and well worth spending half an hour wandering around.

Hone Heke died 7 August 1850, he was around 43.

The grave of Hannah Letheridge, the first European women to be born in New Zealand is nearby.

Historic headstone

The Duke of Marlborough Hotel behind the pohutakawas at Russell.

The ferry goes across the basy to Paihia, next to Waitangi.

To get to Russell from Waitangi or Paihia by car, the best way is to get the car ferry from Opua across the bay. The site of New Zealand's first capital is down a side road near modern day Russell. This was from signing of the treaty of Waitangi on 6 February 1840 until the captial moved to Auckland in 1841.

Coming next: Cape Reinga and Ninety Mile Beach.